Rebuilt 1.3l Motor



Rebuilt Motor

My original motor had 132K on it when i decided to I needed a little more oomph under the hood.  Lucky for me Asian Auto Parts of Arizona (AAPA) is located roughly 30 miles from my house.  After seeing the difference the rebuilt motor made in another local  Zuk I knew I wanted the same setup. I wanted to go with a stock block, bore it .030 over, new bearings and seals and a freshened crank.  I also went with a rebuilt head, we also added larger Sidekick exhaust valves and a new low end billet camshaft.  Before I pulled my motor I did some 0-60 tests, remember I have a GRS II, 4.62 ring and pinions, Thorley header, 2" exhaust and 32" tires, so your results may vary a bit.  After my motor is broke in I will post my findings.

Stock Motor

0-60 22.2 seconds
30-60 17.5 seconds

Ron Conley did the assembly work on my engine (thanks again Ron).  Here's the bottom end all put together.

While Ron was building up the motor I was pulling my old motor.  The previous night I had pulled the alternator, starter, and power steering along with all the electrical stuff.  I was amazed how small and light these motor are.

While your doing this be sure and get a new input shaft seal for the tranny, it's easy to get to at this point. Now is also a good time to weld on some chains next to the motor mounts so you can chain the motor down.  You will also probably find a torn motor mount so figure on putting at least one new one in.  My passenger side mount was broke, I had already replaced my drives side mount a few months ago.  We ended up using a beefier 94 Tracker mount on the drivers side and the stock mount on the passenger side.

A common mistake is to put the head gasket on the wrong way.  It can go on backwards, but this blocks the oil passage to the head, you'll only get about 50 miles that way.

Here Ron is putting on the new head.  You can see the larger exhaust valves in the second picture.

Starting to look like a motor.

One problem I found with the alternator brackets sold by some vendors is the hole on the bottom is too small, causing the hole in the alternator to get egged out.  I drilled the bracket for a bigger bolt  while I had it out.

We also had to shave down the flange on my header, after the head was shaved down the header wouldn't fit anymore. Talk about a close fit.

After you hook it back up expect to have to go back and re-tighten a few of the coolant hoses over the next few days.  Also, don't forget to re-tighten your header bolts as per the instructions.  The timing was a bit off due to the machining work so we ended up indexing the distributor 1 tooth out to get a better range of adjustment.  To top it off I installed one of Dave Kings 30 horse valve covers. After a few hundred miles I'll post some 0-60 times.

Update 12-28-01 - Well, try as I might I couldn't get any better than a 22 second 0-60 time out of the new motor.  It still pulled stronger but I suspect at the higher rpms I actually got slower due to the cam.  I have larger tires on now so any further measurements are impossible unless I borrow a set of 32's.  I also have a coolant leak from the rear of the engine on the intake side.  I changed the intake gasket but it's still there,  You can actually watch water run down when you first start the Zuk, although the leak seems to go away if you don't keep the radiator topped off.  I am suspecting the head gasket or the head may have not been machined very flat.  My motor also leaks oil somewhere from the front.  I would recommend you buy a new crank when you rebuild the motor as the old one probably has a groove worn in it where the main seal contacted it and will start leaking shortly even with a new seal due to the groove.