Ron Conley did the assembly work on
my engine (thanks again Ron). Here's the bottom end all put
While Ron was building up the motor I
was pulling my old motor. The previous night I had pulled the
alternator, starter, and power steering along with all the
electrical stuff. I was amazed how small and light these motor
While your doing this be sure and get
a new input shaft seal for the tranny, it's easy to get to at this
point. Now is also a good time to weld on some chains next to the
motor mounts so you can chain the motor down. You will also
probably find a torn motor mount so figure on putting at least one
new one in. My passenger side mount was broke, I had already
replaced my drives side mount a few months ago. We ended up
using a beefier 94 Tracker mount on the drivers side and the stock
mount on the passenger side.
A common mistake is to put the head
gasket on the wrong way. It can go on backwards, but this
blocks the oil passage to the head, you'll only get about 50 miles
Here Ron is putting on the new head.
You can see the larger exhaust valves in the second picture.
Starting to look like a motor.
One problem I found with the
alternator brackets sold by some vendors is the hole on the bottom
is too small, causing the hole in the alternator to get egged out.
I drilled the bracket for a bigger bolt while I had it out.
We also had to shave down the flange
on my header, after the head was shaved down the header wouldn't fit
anymore. Talk about a close fit.
After you hook it back up expect to
have to go back and re-tighten a few of the coolant hoses over the
next few days. Also, don't forget to re-tighten your header
bolts as per the instructions. The timing was a bit off due to
the machining work so we ended up indexing the distributor 1 tooth
out to get a better range of adjustment. To top it off I
installed one of Dave Kings 30 horse valve covers. After a few
hundred miles I'll post some 0-60 times.
Update 12-28-01 - Well, try as I
might I couldn't get any better than a 22 second 0-60 time out of
the new motor. It still pulled stronger but I suspect at the
higher rpms I actually got slower due to the cam. I have
larger tires on now so any further measurements are impossible
unless I borrow a set of 32's. I also have a coolant leak from
the rear of the engine on the intake side. I changed the
intake gasket but it's still there, You can actually watch
water run down when you first start the Zuk, although the leak seems
to go away if you don't keep the radiator topped off. I am
suspecting the head gasket or the head may have not been machined
very flat. My motor also leaks oil somewhere from the front.
I would recommend you buy a new crank when you rebuild the motor as
the old one probably has a groove worn in it where the main seal
contacted it and will start leaking shortly even with a new seal due
to the groove.