Project Money Pit

Page 16


Suspension/Full Hydro Steering

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It's done!  Well, sort of.  There's still a few issues left to solve.  The biggest involves my new front springs.  I ordered some new YJ springs from JC Whitney, they arrived in about two weeks and I installed them.  When I lowered the vehicle onto the ground I noticed the front shackles collapsed to the point where they are now touching the mount.  It's as if these springs are a hair longer than my previous ones.  I think I'll move the rear mount back an inch or so, that should stand the shackle back up and give me a little lift up front.  I also had to roll the pinion up 6 degrees to keep the front drive shaft from binding.  More would have been nice but I didn't want to throw my caster too far out of whack (the knuckles were cut and turned 5 degrees).

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All loaded up and heading for home. 

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Here's the final steering setup.  That 6" stroke cylinder just fits in there.   

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Rear suspension shot with drive shaft and a temporary muffler in there.

Update - 4-5-03

After another couple of nights of work I can finally say it's ready for the trail.  I now have working dash lights, headlights, rock lights (still need to do the tail lights), I checked all the bolts and mounted a few more things.  Here's some pictures in no particular order.  

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The completed dash.  I managed to track down the same switches used by ARB at Waytek Wire.    Look under switches and then Contura.  These switches are sealed and waterproof and run under $4 each.  You also have your choice of covers, and can get  a cool modular mount so you only need to put one rectangular hole in your panel (I used the modular mounts, I also put in a few blanking plates for future expansion).

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To solve my sagging spring problem, I added another shackle hanger behind the first one.   The second picture shows how I mounted the cylinder to the tie rod.

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My hard steering stop is on the shaft of the cylinder.  I used a pair of shaft collars (really only needed one) and made a metal sleeve that slides over the cylinder shaft (the shaft collar keeps the sleeve from sliding around on the shaft).  If you do this, make sure you clearance the inner shaft collar so it does not push on the shaft seal, a small 1/8" chamfer should provide enough clearance.  I setup the steering so the cylinder bottoms internally in the other direction. 

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The 16v nestled in the engine compartment.   

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Rear rock light mount, I have one more pointed in the opposite direction a little further forward.  The second picture is a view from the back looking forward.  You can see the proportioning valve mounted on the cross member just in back of the t-case.  Also shown is the hard brake lines running up the upper links.

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Here's a close up of one of the connections that go between a soft and hard line.  I bought SAE to metric adapters at Napa so I could use standard 3/16 brake lines with 1/8 fittings (available anywhere).  The brake line retainer clips were also picked up at Napa.  I made the mounting tab from a 6 cent 1 hole tab I picked up at a local steel supply yard.

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Another good example of the little stuff that makes a difference.  I routed the clutch cable so it doesn't touch anything to protect it from rubbing and heat.  To accomplish this I used 2 strategically placed springs, the first one is shown above, the second is down by the lower radiator hose.  Note the melted spot in the plastic cover over the cable is from it resting on a power steering line. 

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