It's done! Well, sort
of. There's still a few issues left to solve. The biggest involves
my new front springs. I ordered some new YJ springs from JC Whitney, they
arrived in about two weeks and I installed them. When I lowered the
vehicle onto the ground I noticed the front shackles collapsed to the point
where they are now touching the mount. It's as if these springs are a hair
longer than my previous ones. I think I'll move the rear mount back an
inch or so, that should stand the shackle back up and give me a little lift up
front. I also had to roll the pinion up 6 degrees to keep the front drive
shaft from binding. More would have been nice but I didn't want to throw
my caster too far out of whack (the knuckles were cut and turned 5 degrees).
All loaded up and heading for
Here's the final steering
setup. That 6" stroke cylinder just fits in there.
Rear suspension shot with drive shaft
and a temporary muffler in there.
Update - 4-5-03
After another couple of nights
of work I can finally say it's ready for the trail. I now have working
dash lights, headlights, rock lights (still need to do the tail lights), I
checked all the bolts and mounted a few more things. Here's some pictures
in no particular order.
The completed dash. I
managed to track down the same switches used by ARB at Waytek
Wire. Look under switches and then Contura. These
switches are sealed and waterproof and run under $4 each. You also have
your choice of covers, and can get a cool modular mount so you only need
to put one rectangular hole in your panel (I used the modular mounts, I also put
in a few blanking plates for future expansion).
To solve my sagging spring
problem, I added another shackle hanger behind the first one. The
second picture shows how I mounted the cylinder to the tie rod.
My hard steering stop is on the
shaft of the cylinder. I used a pair of shaft collars (really only needed
one) and made a metal sleeve that slides over the cylinder shaft (the shaft
collar keeps the sleeve from sliding around on the shaft). If you do this,
make sure you clearance the inner shaft collar so it does not push on the shaft
seal, a small 1/8" chamfer should provide enough clearance. I setup
the steering so the cylinder bottoms internally in the other direction.
The 16v nestled in the engine
Rear rock light mount, I have
one more pointed in the opposite direction a little further forward. The
second picture is a view from the back looking forward. You can see the
proportioning valve mounted on the cross member just in back of the
t-case. Also shown is the hard brake lines running up the upper links.
Here's a close up of one of the
connections that go between a soft and hard line. I bought SAE to metric
adapters at Napa so I could use standard 3/16 brake lines with 1/8 fittings
(available anywhere). The brake line retainer clips were also picked up at
Napa. I made the mounting tab from a 6 cent 1 hole tab I picked up at a
local steel supply yard.
Another good example of the
little stuff that makes a difference. I routed the clutch cable so it
doesn't touch anything to protect it from rubbing and heat. To accomplish
this I used 2 strategically placed springs, the first one is shown above, the
second is down by the lower radiator hose. Note the melted spot in the
plastic cover over the cable is from it resting on a power steering line.