Project Hellraiser 4

Page 13


Previous Update

I was hoping to have the driven the buggy by this point but I ran into some issues with the rear brakes which prevented me from getting much done early in the week. I am fairly confident the problem is with the master cylinder, I can't get it to bench bleed and even in the rig it doesn't generate enough pressure to even trigger my brake line pressure switch. Wilwood master cylinders can be a bear to bleed and I tried every trick I knew with no success so I am awaiting a replacement master cylinder from Jegs. I skipped buying a rebuild kit because for an extra $20 you can get an entirely new master cylinder and I didn't want to mess with rebuilding the one I have yet.

Once I gave up on the brake system I started in on the storage shelf above the fuel cell.  I welded two small anchor points to the chassis so I could strap down anything on the shelf.  The taillight I picked up from Summit Racing mounts to the underside of the shelf and is now wired in.

One little task that I hadn't figured out a solution for was how to remote mount an air line quick disconnect for airing up tires.  With my previous compressor setup I mounted the ARB compressor close enough to the outside of the frame that it was fairly accessible.  With my new air tank mounted right under the drivers seat there was no way you'd be able to reach a quick disconnect mounted directly to the tank.  My solution involved machining a groove into the quick disconnect and then capturing it with the tab as shown in the first picture (the tab was split, disconnect installed, then the tab was welded back up).  

Another task keeping me from starting re-assembly in the rear was a lower panel which needed to act as a heat shield between the gas tank/rear seat and exhaust tubing. Even with a cardboard template I ended up whittling away at the sheet for a few hours until it fit good and was removable.  The dimples up the center help keep it from rattling although after installing the finished panel I discovered a rolled bead may have been a better choice as the panel still oilcans and can hit the exhaust. I will most likely add a tab to keep the panel from oilcanning or roll some beads into it at a later date.

Speaking of dimple dies, my press has been working out great but I did discover some cracks in one of the braces right where the jack sits.  The cracks formed outside of the weld in the heat affected zone I suspect due to the material under the jack compressing (there is a solid piece of material under the jack mounting area). I think a thicker piece of material under the jack would fix the problem, I also would make it wrap around the bracing tube to get more weld surface area.

I also got a chance to use the Harbor freight bead roller I bought over a year ago.  Out of the box these things just don't work well at all due to the frame flexing.  I had since added some box steel tubing around the "C" on the stock frame and the difference is like night and day.

Using a flange die, I rolled this indent into the rear panels next to the seat to keep them from oilcanning.

Since my wife worked this weekend my only time to really work on the buggy uninterrupted started at 7pm on Saturday night.  I think I turned in at 2am with most of the back end assembled.

I did manage to get some fresh paint on the old body panels on Sunday afternoon and mocked up the side panel extensions. Hoping to make the maiden voyage this weekend!

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