Project Hellraiser 3

Page 28


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I tracked down a different steering valve for this build (picked it up second hand).  The old one was setup for a 6" stroke cylinder used on my old Toyota axles. I had later added a steering quickener to get it a bit faster when I went to the 60's and the steering ram stroke required went up to nearly 8".  The new valve is a Trail Gear 130044-1-K  which should give me roughly 2.9 turns lock to lock.  I reused my Hose steering cooler from my previous buggy and mounted it using a clamp from All Out Industries.

The steering reservoir is my old PSC unit. 

The steering ram is an 8" stroke double ended unit made by Performance Off-road Systems.  I have owned this ram for roughly 4 years and at the start of the build I sent it back to Sean at POS to get new seals installed and the cylinder boy grooved to utilize POS's next gen keyed ram mounting clamps.  After the mods the cylinder was re-powder coated and essentially like new again.

The last system to go in was the brakes. I had two small upgrades planned over what I used to run, the first being a set of performance brake pads for the front 3/4 ton calipers. I picked these up from Summit Racing.

The second upgrade was some better caliper pins from Speedway Motors .  The speedway pins ditch the stock soft spacer and allow the caliper to ride on the hardened bolt head eliminating a point of failure.  Once the stock spacers wear enough the collapse causing the caliper pin to back out which has happened to me twice. 

I reused my Wilwood pedal assembly with 3/4Inch bore master cylinder.  Braided stainless brake lines are used to route fluids from the brake masters to the cutting brake.  From there the rear lines route to a proportioning valve, residual valve and finally down the rear upper link to a T on the rear axle before terminating at the calipers.

The fronts are similar, after leaving the cutting brake the line runs down the upper link on the drivers side to a T mounted on the front axle before terminating at the calipers. I get asked how this setup works with no hard lines a lot.  This is essentially the exact same components I ran for several years in my previous buggy and I cannot tell the difference between the all SS lines and rubber/hard lines that I had before that. once fully bled the pedal feel is firm and I can lock up my brakes pretty easily in the dirt.

I used roughly 30 feet of 5/16 fuel line routing the various breathers starting with the transmission breather which terminates into a CSI-851 catch can on a custom bracket made from a two piece shaft collar.

The rear differential breather and transfer case breather both terminate into some North East Extreme Tech (NEXT) billet breathers attached to the radiator overflow can mount. The fuel cell also utilizes another NEXT billet breather and a Spidertrax roll over valve with a fuel line that is looped around the fuel cell to minimize fuel loss in a roll over situation.

Here's a good shot of the interior with the passenger seat removed.  I strived for a better enclosed cabin this go around.  All of the black panels are painted steel, I left any aluminum floor panels bare.

The roof panels I made previously with the decorative strip laid up the middle thanks to a nice masking job by my wife. The inset brake light was from my previous chassis, I just had to modify it so the wire routing would be flush with the body yet would not touch the body.

it took a while to get the nitrogen in the struts, mainly because I could not get them to fully extend.  The lower chamber was the easy one to fill since it is done at full compression.  That charge determines the ride quality, more nitrogen is stiffer, less is softer but with more body roll.  The goal is to find the desired level of stiffness vs. body roll.  I started with 115 psi of nitrogen in the front lower chamber and 100psi in the rear. The upper chamber nitrogen sets the ride height and needs to be done with the strut fully extended or else you'll need to use really high pressures to get the strut to extend if you are staring with it compressed.  I could not get them fully extended using the engine hoist and weight of the axles to pull the struts down so got them to a common point (roughly 13" of shaft exposed) and started trying nitrogen charges.  I went from 175 psi down to 130 psi before getting the 7" of shaft showing that I was after in front, 120 psi did the same task in back.

The last task was the body panels, here's the end result.

The interior fully assembled. The red seen in the seat cut is the seat heater pad.

The final lighting consists of a 22" Vision X LED bar for long distance lighting, two Solstice Prime 10 watt emitters (narrow beam) for headlight duty and a Vision X Tantrum rock light kit for night crawling.

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