tracked down a different steering valve for this build (picked it up
second hand). The old one was setup for a 6" stroke cylinder
used on my old Toyota axles. I had later added a steering quickener
to get it a bit faster when I went to the 60's and the steering ram
stroke required went up to nearly 8". The new valve is a Trail
Gear 130044-1-K which should give me roughly 2.9 turns lock to
lock. I reused my Hose steering cooler from my previous buggy
and mounted it using a clamp from
All Out Industries.
steering reservoir is my old PSC unit.
steering ram is an 8" stroke double ended unit made by Performance
Off-road Systems. I have owned this ram for roughly 4 years
and at the start of the build I sent it back to Sean at POS to get
new seals installed and the cylinder boy grooved to utilize POS's
next gen keyed ram mounting clamps. After the mods the
cylinder was re-powder coated and essentially like new again.
last system to go in was the brakes. I had two small upgrades
planned over what I used to run, the first being a set of
performance brake pads for the front 3/4 ton calipers. I picked
these up from Summit Racing.
second upgrade was some better caliper pins from
Speedway Motors . The speedway pins ditch the stock soft
spacer and allow the caliper to ride on the hardened bolt head
eliminating a point of failure. Once the stock spacers wear
enough the collapse causing the caliper pin to back out which has
happened to me twice.
reused my Wilwood pedal assembly with 3/4Inch bore master cylinder.
Braided stainless brake lines are used to route fluids from the
brake masters to the cutting brake. From there the rear lines
route to a proportioning valve, residual valve and finally down the
rear upper link to a T on the rear axle before terminating at the
fronts are similar, after leaving the cutting brake the line runs
down the upper link on the drivers side to a T mounted on the front
axle before terminating at the calipers. I get asked how this setup
works with no hard lines a lot. This is essentially the exact
same components I ran for several years in my previous buggy and I
cannot tell the difference between the all SS lines and rubber/hard
lines that I had before that. once fully bled the pedal feel is firm
and I can lock up my brakes pretty easily in the dirt.
used roughly 30 feet of 5/16 fuel line routing the various breathers
starting with the transmission breather which terminates into a
CSI-851 catch can on a custom bracket made from a two piece shaft
rear differential breather and transfer case breather both terminate
East Extreme Tech (NEXT) billet breathers attached to the
radiator overflow can mount. The fuel cell also utilizes another
NEXT billet breather and a Spidertrax roll over valve with a fuel
line that is looped around the fuel cell to minimize fuel loss in a
roll over situation.
Here's a good shot of the interior with the passenger seat removed.
I strived for a better enclosed cabin this go around. All of
the black panels are painted steel, I left any aluminum floor panels
roof panels I made previously with the decorative strip laid up the
middle thanks to a nice masking job by my wife. The inset brake
light was from my previous chassis, I just had to modify it so the
wire routing would be flush with the body yet would not touch the
took a while to get the nitrogen in the struts, mainly because I
could not get them to fully extend. The lower chamber was the
easy one to fill since it is done at full compression. That
charge determines the ride quality, more nitrogen is stiffer, less
is softer but with more body roll. The goal is to find the
desired level of stiffness vs. body roll. I started with 115
psi of nitrogen in the front lower chamber and 100psi in the rear.
The upper chamber nitrogen sets the ride height and needs to be done
with the strut fully extended or else you'll need to use really high
pressures to get the strut to extend if you are staring with it
compressed. I could not get them fully extended using the
engine hoist and weight of the axles to pull the struts down so got
them to a common point (roughly 13" of shaft exposed) and started
trying nitrogen charges. I went from 175 psi down to 130 psi
before getting the 7" of shaft showing that I was after in front,
120 psi did the same task in back.
last task was the body panels, here's the end result.
interior fully assembled. The red seen in the seat cut is the seat
final lighting consists of a 22" Vision X LED bar for long distance
lighting, two Solstice Prime 10 watt emitters (narrow beam) for
headlight duty and a Vision X Tantrum rock light kit for night