the drive train installed it was time to start in on the wiring and
plumbing. I tried to work in layers from the bottom of the
buggy up when possible so the first thing I tackled was the fuel
the suggestion of a customer of mine that built one of my Hellraiser
2 chassis's, I fabricated a heat shield to deflect the air from the
radiator fans away from the fuel cell.
I lined the fuel pump and radiator mounts with some self adhesive
silicone foam I picked up from McMaster Carr (#8623K279)
fuel filters received new filter elements. The main filter was
particularly dirt with what looked like fine silt.
Russell adapters #640860 and #640850 were used to change the oem
fuel rail connections to -6 AN. I then connected Russell brand
pre-made braided stainless fuel lines to the fuel rails before
routing them back along the side of the transmission..
high pressure feed line gets a fuel pressure gauge mounted just
after the final filter. The larger line then goes to the filter,
fuel pump, pre-filter and finally the fuel cell while the other
return line goes straight to the fuel cell.
then installed the fuel cell, the same 8 gallon RCI unit I had run
in the last buggy. Inside the cell I run 4 Walbro fuel pickups
configured as shown in the second picture. The unconnected hose barb
connects to a hose barb on the bulkhead fitting.
While I was back there I also installed the rear rock lights behind
the cell and above the rear tires.
the fuel system in place the next layer was the radiator and lines.
The radiator was set on top of the foam lined holder and the upper
holding clamp was installed. The radiator catch can is an aluminum
unit I picked up from Speedway and mounts to the passenger side of
all the water lines were connected using a variety of Gates flexible
up was the transmission plumbing. The rear mounted cooler sits
just in front of the radiator and required 180 degree fittings to
get the lines route down to the floor level using a minimum amount
of space. From the cooler the feed line runs to a filter
located under the drivers seat and the other line runs straight to
the transmission. The sender for my transmission gauge resides in
the filter housing.
Somewhere between the radiator and transmission cooler install I
started running bundles of labeled wires from the front to the rear
of the buggy. Along the way I discovered I would need to clearance
the seat frame weldment if I was going to fit all the wires past the
transmission with room to spare so the weldment was pulled ,
clearanced, welded and touched up before going back in.
up was finding a home for the PCM. I really wanted it behind the
dash but I just could not find a spot with the room required to
mount it so I settled on a spot under the driver seat. While
it was still accessible I wrapped the exhaust tubes, then came up
with a heat shield to block off the area the PCM would be mounted.
I had already made a closeout panel that sat between the seat rails
and as it turns out it made a nice mounting plate for the PCM. Due
to the midship mounting position I did have to modify the engine
harness to move the fuse block and OBD2 port further forward so they
would end up in the dash.
with the majority of wires routed to the back and the engine harness
connected to the engine I needed to get the gauges and positioned
before the real wiring fun began. From left to right I am running a
water temp gauge, Aeroforce Scan gauge (set to monitor the knock
sensors on the engine), transmission temp gauge, oil pressure gauge
with 15psi warning light and finally a boost gauge. Both of the far
end gauges are angled towards the driver.
Here's the preliminary wiring schematic I came up with followed by
the final. Link to the
wiring diagram in
power gets routed from the battery to the alternator then to a 120
amp circuit breaker.
120 amp circuit breaker feeds a continuous duty 100 amp solenoid and
a distribution block. The solenoid provides power the electric
water pump, Spal electronic fan controller (radiator fan #1), engine
harness fuse block and the ARB compressor. The rest of the
components draw from the distribution block.
of the large draw items are protected by auto-resetting circuit
breakers and switched via relays which are all labeled. I also
installed a spare relay in the middle of the group for a quick swap
if one goes down.
have two fuse blocks in the system, one is dedicated to the engine
harness, the other powers low draw circuits like the gauge lights,
brake lights, oil accumulator solenoid and temp sensors.
Located in the middle of this mess is a ground distribution block
for easy grounding.
Eventually I went back and cleaned up the wires by securing them
with tie wraps every 6-8 inches. Here's the final routing before the
floors went in.
have ditched the old Optima in favor of a Sears Diehard platinum
which is essentially an Oddesy AGM battery. Despite being a
group 34 battery it did not fit in the Ballistic group 34 battery
box without some mods to the box. Namely I had to re-bend the
outer tabs to accommodate the larger Die Hard battery. I have
another box from Artec to replace this one down the road as it still
doesn't hold the battery securely as I'd like. The only thing
connecting to the battery terminals is the winch power lead on the
positive side. The positive battery cable connects to the back
of the alternator and from there a 10 gauge wire is routed to the
120 amp circuit breaker that protects all the buggies circuits.
I added a ground lug to the winch plate to connect the negative
battery cable and winch ground cable.
final switch layout changed after I could not fit them all in the
dash. I ended up putting the light switches in the shifter
column and then teh ARB compressor, ARB solenoid and seat heater
switches in the dash. The seat heaters are made by Warmseats and I
picked them up from
Jegs. The kit comes with two waterproof panels and is
designed to go in one seat. I chose to put one panel in each
section of the lower front seats since we usually are layered up
real good up top with shirts/sweatshirt/jacket but only one layer in
the pants department. After a weekend out in 45 degree temps I think
I made a wise choice, the seat heaters worked really well and
quickly put out heat in the high setting. I suspect in the low
setting only one pad gets power, so I put the pad with the 4 wire
harness to it on the drivers side.