Project Hellraiser 3

Page 27

   
 
 

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With the drive train installed it was time to start in on the wiring and plumbing.  I tried to work in layers from the bottom of the buggy up when possible so the first thing I tackled was the fuel system.

On the suggestion of a customer of mine that built one of my Hellraiser 2 chassis's, I fabricated a heat shield to deflect the air from the radiator fans away from the fuel cell.

Next I lined the fuel pump and radiator mounts with some self adhesive silicone foam I picked up from McMaster Carr (#8623K279)

Both fuel filters received new filter elements.  The main filter was particularly dirt with what looked like fine silt.

Russell adapters #640860 and #640850 were used to change the oem fuel rail connections to -6 AN. I then connected Russell brand pre-made braided stainless fuel lines to the fuel rails before routing them back along the side of the transmission..

The high pressure feed line gets a fuel pressure gauge mounted just after the final filter. The larger line then goes to the filter, fuel pump, pre-filter and finally the fuel cell while the other return line goes straight to the fuel cell.

I then installed the fuel cell, the same 8 gallon RCI unit I had run in the last buggy. Inside the cell I run 4 Walbro fuel pickups configured as shown in the second picture. The unconnected hose barb connects to a hose barb on the bulkhead fitting.

While I was back there I also installed the rear rock lights behind the cell and above the rear tires.

With the fuel system in place the next layer was the radiator and lines.  The radiator was set on top of the foam lined holder and the upper holding clamp was installed. The radiator catch can is an aluminum unit I picked up from Speedway and mounts to the passenger side of the radiator.

Next all the water lines were connected using a variety of Gates flexible radiator hoses.

Next up was the transmission plumbing.  The rear mounted cooler sits just in front of the radiator and required 180 degree fittings to get the lines route down to the floor level using a minimum amount of space.  From the cooler the feed line runs to a filter located under the drivers seat and the other line runs straight to the transmission. The sender for my transmission gauge resides in the filter housing.

Somewhere between the radiator and transmission cooler install I started running bundles of labeled wires from the front to the rear of the buggy. Along the way I discovered I would need to clearance the seat frame weldment if I was going to fit all the wires past the transmission with room to spare so the weldment was pulled , clearanced, welded and touched up before going back in.

Next up was finding a home for the PCM. I really wanted it behind the dash but I just could not find a spot with the room required to mount it so I settled on a spot under the driver seat.  While it was still accessible I wrapped the exhaust tubes, then came up with a heat shield to block off the area the PCM would be mounted.  I had already made a closeout panel that sat between the seat rails and as it turns out it made a nice mounting plate for the PCM. Due to the midship mounting position I did have to modify the engine harness to move the fuse block and OBD2 port further forward so they would end up in the dash.

So with the majority of wires routed to the back and the engine harness connected to the engine I needed to get the gauges and positioned before the real wiring fun began. From left to right I am running a water temp gauge, Aeroforce Scan gauge (set to monitor the knock sensors on the engine), transmission temp gauge, oil pressure gauge with 15psi warning light and finally a boost gauge. Both of the far end gauges are angled towards the driver.

Here's the preliminary wiring schematic I came up with followed by the final. Link to the wiring diagram in .pdf format.

So power gets routed from the battery to the alternator then to a 120 amp circuit breaker.

The 120 amp circuit breaker feeds a continuous duty 100 amp solenoid and a distribution block.  The solenoid provides power the electric water pump, Spal electronic fan controller (radiator fan #1), engine harness fuse block and the ARB compressor. The rest of the components draw from the distribution block.

All of the large draw items are protected by auto-resetting circuit breakers and switched via relays which are all labeled. I also installed a spare relay in the middle of the group for a quick swap if one goes down.

I have two fuse blocks in the system, one is dedicated to the engine harness, the other powers low draw circuits like the gauge lights, brake lights, oil accumulator solenoid and temp sensors.  Located in the middle of this mess is a ground distribution block for easy grounding.

Eventually I went back and cleaned up the wires by securing them with tie wraps every 6-8 inches. Here's the final routing before the floors went in.

I have ditched the old Optima in favor of a Sears Diehard platinum which is essentially an Oddesy AGM battery.  Despite being a group 34 battery it did not fit in the Ballistic group 34 battery box without some mods to the box.  Namely I had to re-bend the outer tabs to accommodate the larger Die Hard battery.  I have another box from Artec to replace this one down the road as it still doesn't hold the battery securely as I'd like. The only thing connecting to the battery terminals is the winch power lead on the positive side.  The positive battery cable connects to the back of the alternator and from there a 10 gauge wire is routed to the 120 amp circuit breaker that protects all the buggies circuits.  I added a ground lug to the winch plate to connect the negative battery cable and winch ground cable.

The final switch layout changed after I could not fit them all in the dash.  I ended up putting the light switches in the shifter column and then teh ARB compressor, ARB solenoid and seat heater switches in the dash. The seat heaters are made by Warmseats and I picked them up from Jegs.  The kit comes with two waterproof panels and is designed to go in one seat.  I chose to put one panel in each section of the lower front seats since we usually are layered up real good up top with shirts/sweatshirt/jacket but only one layer in the pants department. After a weekend out in 45 degree temps I think I made a wise choice, the seat heaters worked really well and quickly put out heat in the high setting.  I suspect in the low setting only one pad gets power, so I put the pad with the 4 wire harness to it on the drivers side.

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