Project Hellraiser 3

Page 22



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The final step for some of the larger floor panels was to roll a bead in them to keep them from oil canning.

I also rolled a bead in the center dash panel to break up the large expanse of aluminum.

The final interior panels were the engine doghouse.  The goal here was to make them easily removable for spark plug access and to block most of the header from the passenger compartment.  On the passenger side I set the panel up so it would also act a heat shield for the air filter.

Initially I thought this would be the hardest spot to close off due to the bend in the tubing but it ended up being a relatively simple panel with two bends in it.

The drivers side doghouse panels ended up being much more difficult to nail down due to pedals and throttle linkage.  In the end I opted for a two piece design since the interior panel was not going to be easy to get out once the seat was installed.  I made the front section removable for plug access.

Speaking of throttle linkages, I had been putting this off for a while but it was time to figure it out once and for all.  Like last time I ended up having to use a bell crank to take up some of the angle on the cable.  The biggest difference this time around was the bell crank had to be laid down on it's side due to the hood height being so much lower than my previous buggy.  The bracket for mounting this took a few hours of head scratching and cursing to finalize.

One of the tasks on my to-do list was to make place to store spare fluids.  I came up with this multi-piece box that holds six quart bottles.

A single bar drops in a slot along the top edge of the bottle holder to capture the quart bottles.  Since this holder ended up on top of my tool storage box it needed to be easily removable.  I attached some small pins to the far side of the holder and drill holes in the mount so the pins engage the mount.  On the inside a single large nut pulls the holder so the pins cannot back out.

The bottle holder in place with the cooler.

Exterior paneling was next and I started off with some cardboard templates to get the rough fit.

Usually I'd save the exterior panels for last but since I want to paint after the next teardown I need to get anything that needs to be welded to the chassis attached.  This means all the body tabs need to be positioned and the only real way to do this is to make the panels.  I am using some small trick tabs for the exterior panel mounts.  The tabs came with .250 diameter holes already drilled in them so I just need to weld a 1/4-20 nut on the backside so the panels will only require a single tool to remove.

The hood panels are made from .063 thick 5052 aluminum.  After getting them fitted and the tabs welded in I added some vent holes that run above the headers.

The roof is a 3 piece design to make working with and replacing the panels easier. I used three .090 thick 5052 sheets, two for the sides and one for the rear portion.

It would have been possible to make this from a single piece but working with a 4' x 8' sheet is really difficult in a small garage.

An overall view with the hood and roof panels in place.

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