I capped off the two angled risers with another section of tube, then tied the
front portion into the seat mounts. At this point I really need to pull
parts off the old rig to move forward. The next 4 tasks are:
1. The radiator needs to be mounted so can move the motor into its final
2. The transfer case needs to be mounted and clocked so I can put in the bars
for the rear set and check for shifter clearance.
3. The exhaust manifolds and piping are needed to check exhaust routing and
4. The intake piping needs to be mounted so the dash can be further
I tried to find a pre-made universal radiator mounting bracket with no luck so I
designed one. The flat
pattern is available in this pdf file. The theory behind this style mount is
to make a padded nest to set the radiator in that will locate it front to rear
and set it's lowest position. Later I will make an adjustable clamping
piece that wraps around the top and lightly tensions the radiator. Keep in
the back of your mind that you want to try to avoid mounting this bracket to a
tube that has a chance of moving in a roll.
The bracket rested nicely against the front shock hoops setting just behind
them. In theory they should be able to move up to .50" before they start
getting into the radiator although once I add some cross bracing I doubt they
will move much in all but the hardest rolls. The bracket was positioned with
.75" of clearance along the back edge of the radiator to keep it from rubbing on
Test fitting the radiator. I did notice that the S/C belt clearance is
going to be tight and in this position the motor is all the way back against the
first cross brace in the passenger cabin. I plan on notching the bottom of
the cross brace or possibly moving it back to allow for a little bit of
clearance. Considering I designed this chassis for a rear mounted radiator I am
happy with the drive train fit.
I came back to the project a few days later and decided to rotate the radiator
so it angles forward. This configuration gives me room in two places that
I really need it. First it frees up the area in front of the radiator for
making room for the winch. On the opposite corner (above and behind) it
makes room for the S/C belt and allows me to push the engine 5 inches forward
which is a huge deal when it comes to cabin space. The downside is it makes the
engine cage more difficult but I think I can come up with something that still
fully protects the radiator.
I also sleeved the lower rear cross member with a piece of 1.75 x .120
wall ERW tubing. This makes the cross member match the tubing ID required
for my lower link mount assembly.
Sometimes you just aren't in the mood to figure out the complex stuff so when
this happens to me I go do something easy. In this case I cut and mounted
the front windshield braces and then came up with a light mount bar so I could
mount my LED light bar desert truck style. The light bar is a VisionX XIL-120
which I picked up as a refurbished unit. It has 8(8) 3 watt LED's and puts
out a little less light than a 35 watt HID lamp. I plan on mounting a pair of
the Solstice Solo 10 watt LED light pods (pencil beam) next to this down the
I am waiting for a winch plate to arrive before mounting the winch and figuring
out the engine cage so I'll move back to the passenger cabin this coming week..