Project Hellraiser 3

Page 4

   
 
 

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Drive train layout is the next step in the process.  This allows you to check the fit and make any adjustments needed to accommodate your drive train of choice.

There are a thousand different ways to make motor mounts.  In my case I chose to use some materials I had on hand starting with some 1.25 x .120 wall square steel tubing and some control arm bushings from a Honda Odyssey minivan. I am also choosing to make the mounts adjustable so I can play around with angling the motor/transmission to create more drive shaft clearance.

After some measurements I chose to mount the motor mounts approximately 22" back from the leading edge of the chassis.

To make the mounts adjustable I plan on sliding the control arm bushings inside of the 1.25 square steel tubing.  The control arms are built with .750 diameter tubing so an external sleeve will need to be added to get the OD. up to 1.00 inch to snugly fit in the square steel tubing.

The square steel tubing is next notched on each end so it sits between the frame rails.

Next I made some paper templates for the motor mount plates (pdf available here) which were transferred to a single piece of 6 x 6 x .25" steel plate. These pre-cut squares are sold in all sorts of sizes at a local steel yard for about $1.50.  The small size is convenient to work with and in this case my motor mount plates had an outer dimension of 3 x 6" so both fit ton one piece. Once the holes for both plates were drilled I plasma cut the plate in two, rounded the corners and mounted them to the engine block.

Since I could not remove the bushings from the control arms I had to weld the sleeves on with the bushings in place.  To avoid melting the bushings I set them in a small cup of water and after welding immediately transferred them to a larger bucket of water. The holes in the sleeve are for plug welds.

Next I cut down the long piece of square steel tubing so they would allow for an inch of movement in and out of the bushing.

Next I modified my homemade motor dolly to set the motor at the proper mounted height.

You can see the motor is angled just over a degree which puts the crank slightly off center towards the passenger side. 

With the motor positioned I tacked the mounts in place.  since the motor dolly has wheels I can still roll the whole chassis around as a unit.

The moment off truth came when I mounted the transmission.

My goal was to have the transmission setting just above the lower frame rails and it looks like I made my goal.

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