Drive train layout is
the next step in the process. This allows you to check the fit
and make any adjustments needed to accommodate your drive train of
There are a thousand
different ways to make motor mounts. In my case I chose to use
some materials I had on hand starting with some 1.25 x .120 wall
square steel tubing and some control arm bushings from a Honda
Odyssey minivan. I am also choosing to make the mounts adjustable so
I can play around with angling the motor/transmission to create more
drive shaft clearance.
measurements I chose to mount the motor mounts approximately 22"
back from the leading edge of the chassis.
To make the mounts
adjustable I plan on sliding the control arm bushings inside of the
1.25 square steel tubing. The control arms are built with .750
diameter tubing so an external sleeve will need to be added to get
the OD. up to 1.00 inch to snugly fit in the square steel tubing.
The square steel
tubing is next notched on each end so it sits between the frame
Next I made some paper
templates for the motor mount plates
available here) which were transferred to a
single piece of 6 x 6 x .25" steel plate. These pre-cut squares are
sold in all sorts of sizes at a local steel yard for about $1.50.
The small size is convenient to work with and in this case my motor
mount plates had an outer dimension of 3 x 6" so both fit ton one
piece. Once the holes for both plates were drilled I plasma cut the
plate in two, rounded the corners and mounted them to the engine
Since I could not
remove the bushings from the control arms I had to weld the sleeves
on with the bushings in place. To avoid melting the bushings I
set them in a small cup of water and after welding immediately
transferred them to a larger bucket of water. The holes in the
sleeve are for plug welds.
Next I cut down the
long piece of square steel tubing so they would allow for an inch of
movement in and out of the bushing.
Next I modified my
homemade motor dolly to set the motor at the proper mounted height.
You can see the motor
is angled just over a degree which puts the crank slightly off
center towards the passenger side.
With the motor
positioned I tacked the mounts in place. since the motor dolly
has wheels I can still roll the whole chassis around as a unit.
The moment off truth
came when I mounted the transmission.
My goal was to have
the transmission setting just above the lower frame rails and it
looks like I made my goal.