This first page
follows contains all the tubes in stage 1 of the chassis plans.
The plans are designed around 1.625" diameter tubing but I
am using 1.50" diameter tubing to show the difference in tubing size
is so small it really doesn't matter. Unless noted everything
is 1.50 x .120 wall DOM and I am doing no conversions with the cut
lengths listed in the plans.
First up were the
lower frame rails. These are a bit shorter than the ones on my
current 4 seater due to being optimized for an automatic
transmission. My 4 seater chassis started with a Toyota 5 speed
which was much taller than the current TF904 that I eventually
The first two pieces
of tube are positioned on my chassis jig and tipped outward roughly
23 degrees. as with any angle listed in the plans, consistency is
more important than accuracy. Make the second one match the
first, even if the bends or angles are not exactly what is called
out in the prints.
The sheet on the jig
allowed me to line up the two lower frame rails front to rear.
Once I was happy with their position I went ahead and tack welded
them to the jig.
The lower cross
members will also serve as link mounts so it is a good place to go
overkill. I decided to use some .250 wall DOM for their
construction. I am holding off on the lower front cross member
for now until I mock up the motor.
Next up are the front
frame rails which jog inward to allow clearance for the front
At this point I needed
to notch the lower frame rails to accept the front frame rails.
I did this by placing my tube notcher on the tubing, set it parallel
to the ground and then sighted down the tube so the notcher was also
parallel to the straight portion of the lower frame rail.
The front frame rails
were then leveled on some jack stands and tacked into place followed
by the front cross member.
My tube positioners
came in handy here.
Making sure the front
cross member was still level.
I do all of the small
tubes with a drill press/tubing notcher. For the larger pieces
like the side rails I again turned to my "floating" tube
notcher/half inch drill combo. Having two notchers means I
don' have to take down the drill press setup. Here I secured
the side rails to my tubing bender frame, set the angle then sighted
down the tubing to get the notch inline with the side rail.
The side rails
attached to the chassis. You'll notice I did not tack in a front
lower cross member yet, that needs to go in after the drive train is
located. I also plan on moving the rear lower cross member
back to where the lower frame rails kick upwards.
Rear bridge added and
the open ends capped off. This completes the sub-frame of the
chassis. It is very similar to my original design from 2004
except I left the inner area wide open so you can decide if you want
boat sides or not, seats mounted high or low, etc. Both the
Hellraiser 2 Pickup chassis and Hellraiser 2 Buggy chassis utilize
this same sub-frame.