Project Hellraiser

Page 2


 Will it fit?

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Will it fit?  That was the 100,000 dollar question.

The first step was stripping down the rig.  Body panels, seats, etc were removed. 


Next up was removal of the wiring and firewall.  I figured it would be much easier to get the new motor in without stuff in the way. 

The 3rd step in prepping for the new drive train was removing any tubes I felt would be in the way.  The old radiator mount and upper shock cross member was removed along with the dash bars and some of the interior tube work.  I also took this opportunity to remove some of the unused tubes and tabs that were inaccessible before.

At this point I had about 2 weeks of work into the project.

The drive train arrived on a Thursday and unfortunately there was some shipping damage.  I need to head to the junkyards and track down a new pulley, a coil pack and another ignition module.

I took Friday off from work and with the help of Jack and Scott we managed to get the motor mounted in the chassis.  It actually fits very nicely.  We managed to get the motor sitting below the existing hood line and about 8 inches further back from the old motor.  The reason for placing the motor so far back in the chassis was to accommodate a 19 x 26" aluminum radiator.

Currently the rig is sitting on it's bump stops to allow me to get everything as close as possible at max suspension compression.

The transmission and t-case slid right into the interior with only minor modifications to the battery tray.  Despite the motor being pushed so far back in the chassis I will still need a longer rear driveshaft.

This engine originally came out of a front wheel drive car which explains the exhaust flange positioning.  The exhaust front the other side of the motor runs thru a pipe along the back of the motor before combining with the exhaust from the passenger side exhaust manifold.  I think the arrangement will actually work quite nicely for my chassis as it looks like the exhaust can dump down and into the passenger side boat side.

A shot showing the oil pan and transmission pan.  The transmission is actually much thinner than the Toyota 5 speed box and I will have much more clearance between the skid plat and transmission. All in all I am happy with the fit.  I was expecting to have to re-do the front tubing but now it looks like changes will be minimal.  The biggest challenges look to be the interior where things will be a little more cozy than last time.

Update 3-19-06

Now that the motor was mounted I could turn my attention to some of the details.  The first big unknown was what to do with the air intake since it stuck into the cab about where my old gauge cluster was mounted.  After a lot of digging on the internet I ended up at This internet store stocks all sorts of rubber and silicone elbows, reducers, adapters and the tubing to connect them.

Using the catalog the website I was able to find this cobra head 90 degree elbow which is designed for use in tight quarters like near a firewall.  The head flares out to prevent turbulence.

I then made some cardboard mock ups the elbows, piping and a K&N filter to decide where I wanted to put it.  The above shows a cobra head elbow joint to a small section of 4" diameter tubing then to another 90 degree elbow.  After some thought I decided swap out the second 90 degree elbow for a 45 degree elbow, then another small piece of 4" diameter tubing to the last 45 degree elbow.  The intake will then be terminated with a K&N filter.  Right now I am looking at a #RD-1460 which is 7"  in diameter and 9 inches long.

I had made this cardboard mock up of a radiator the previous day to aid in engine placement.  The template is 26" wide, 19 " tall and 3" thick.  I intend to order a dual pass radiator with the inlet and outlet on the drivers side of the engine compartment.  Not sure where I am going to source the radiator from yet.  As you can see I was also playing around with some tubes to build an engine cage but I want to wait till I have the coilovers in hand before I finalize anything.

the steering component locations also need to change to accommodate the new motor.  Here is a picture of the existing TC style pump I am using.  With it on the drivers side of the motor the reservoir feed comes in from the right side of the pump and the high pressure hose connects to the top.  I was concerned about the pump placement on the new motor since the pump is on the passenger side and the reservoir feed line would interfere with the block.

On closer inspection I realized the new motor uses the same TC style pump but it is mounted upside down.  This should work out fine, I plan on swapping the pulley and then relocating the reservoir to the passenger side.

One item I am not sure how to handle is the air pump on the motor.  it doesn't look like I can remove it as the alternator mount is integrated in to the top of the air pump housing.  This is one issue I need to look into some more.

Here's a peek into my after hours work on the project.  I spend a lot of time searching for solutions and sourcing parts in the evening or while the boy is sleeping.  I have notes here covering my driveline plans, a to do list and the start of the intake design.

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