The throttle linkage was one of the bigger problems I faced.
With the intake being so far in the cab the throttle cable had to make bends
totaling 360 degrees before it could connect to the gas pedal. This proved
too much and the cable was very stiff. After some discussion with a friend at
work I decided to design a bell crank to eliminate 180 degrees worth of bends,
as luck would have it I found a universal bell crank kit in a Jeg's catalog.
Mounting it proved to be another challenge since the angle and distance from the
throttle pedal determined how much travel I would get out of the linkage. In the
end I used a thin piece of aluminum to mount the bell crank so I could bend it
to the desired angle, then I made a pair of small links to reinforce the
mounting plate so it would not deflect when pushing on the gas pedal.
I decided early on that all the interior panels would have to
be removable to facilitate maintenance. The firewall panels proved to be
the hardest to mount since I did not have a sub structure to mount them to.
Here's what I came up with. The picture above shows the center console. I
bent another piece if aluminum to form a 1 x 1 x 6" long aluminum angle and
riveted it to the center console. I then drilled 3 holes in the exposed
angle and installed some 10-32 nut inserts.
The mating panel could now bolt to the center console panel.
As you can see I also made some more angle pieces and riveted them to the
firewall panel along the bottom edge to make it more rigid.
At this point I realized I did not have good access to the
spark plugs and the floor would have to be pulled before I could remove the
firewall panel to gain access (if I rolled I would want to pull the plugs and
clear the cylinders of any oil that may have accumulated). I modified the
firewall panel so the front portion of it could be removed easily. The
last thing I did was coat the inside of the panel with some self adhesive heat
reflecting material I picked up from Summit Racing.
Here is the driver side firewall panel, the front portion is
removable just like the passenger side.
To activate the rear brake light I installed a pressure switch
in the rear brake line circuit. Further back in the line is a line lock
and proportioning valve.
The firs test run revealed two big issues. Issue # 1
involved the front driveshaft angle, it was too close to the max angle the 1410
u-joints would handle, so close that the driveshaft yoke was contacting the
u-joint on hard turns. The second issue involved the transmission which
only had two functioning gears: reverse and 1st.
The driveshaft issue was addressed by clocking the transfer
case downward another set of holes on the clocking ring. This required
clearancing the cross member and re-working the carrier bearing mount.
These changes reduced the driveshaft angle another 5 degrees. I also
clearanced the driveshaft yoke for an extra bit of safety.
The transmission issue doesn't look to be fixable by me.
I checked with Art Carr to see if the valve body could have been installed wrong
but they said this particular unit was pretty foolproof so all signs point to a
problem with the transmission internals. I do not know the history of this
transmission other than being told it was "built" by a well known shop. From now
on I will treat any used transmission as junk unless I have seen them run.
I ended up pulling the transmission with the help of a friend and took it to a
local transmission shop. While it is being re-assembled correctly I am
also having a 2500 rpm stall torque converter installed. This should make
it easier to hold the brakes when the transfer case is in low.