Last week I had
fabricated a mount to hook up the steering stabilizer. At the
axle end I was able to re-use the mount I cut off when I was
re-working the track bar mount. I chose to hook the other end
of the stabilizer to the tie rod and came up with a two piece bracket that I made from a pair of 1 5/8 two piece shaft collars,
a shock mounting stud and two small pieces of steel (to tie the
shaft collars together).
The steering was
working nice but after two off-road trips (Crown King and a Table
Mesa night run) things started feeling loose again and I experienced
a really nasty front end shimmy around 50-55mph. I did re-torque
everything a week ago and the castle nuts were loose. Upon
closer inspection there was again movement at the ball joints that
came with the TeraFlex high steer kit.
The culprits ended up
being the washer supplied with the kit, as you can see in the second
picture they were caving in when the nut was tightened. I also
dragged the tie rod over a rod the previous evening which must have
bent the washer further. These washers really should be
hardened, they looked to be grade 5, way too soft for what they were
supposed to do. I replaced them with some grade 8 washers, if
those aren't hard enough I will order some hardened washer from
Another addition was a
removable rod that braces the track bar mount to the opposite frame
rail. This may seem like overkill but when wiggling the Jeep
back and forth it looked like the stock mount flexed a bit.
Checking for clearance
front and rear with the suspension articulated I noticed I was not
bottoming out on the bump stops and the rear shock gets really close
to the exhaust when that side drops out. The shock isn't a big
concern but it would be nice to ensure that the suspension bottoms
out on a bump stop and not the fenders.
Thanks to a cylinder
bracket given to me by Jack I have a way to air up my tires after a
run. I am utilizing the nitrogen tank that I have setup to
charge my coilovers. Might as well put it to some use......
Also mounted a pair of
rock lights next to the rear tires. At one point these were on
my 3 seater buggy, then they resided in a garage cabinet for a few
years. Again, might as well put them to use. I wired
them up via a relay which is activated along with the front driving
lights. After one night run I am glad I installed these as
they really helped visibility. I can see adding one more out
back for those times when you have to back up in the dark.
-Finally installed the gas tank skid plate I had been tripping over
for the past to months.
Also went ahead and
ordered some fresh rod ends and seals for the track bar I made.
I found the seals at Speedway, hopefully these will keep most of the
dirt and grime out of the rod ends. One thing I did notice is that
you can't use a high misalignment spacer with the seals since they
have a small washer bonded to the rubber.
On another note I have
been fighting a front end wobble that seemed to changed from good to
worse at seemingly random intervals. After going thru all the
death wobble checklists I could find and not changing the symptoms
had about given up until a few weeks ago when I drove home without
airing up the tires. All of a sudden the wobble was gone.
So add air pressure as one of the things to check if all your front
end components are tight and in order. After some
experimenting I have found the turning point seems to be around
17psi. If I fill the front tires any more than that the front
end wobbles from 50-60mph with higher air pressures resulting in
death wobble. At 16psi everything is happy. for
reference this was discovered after I had a full alignment done
(which included adjusting the upper control arms to get the camber
in spec) and I had the tires re-balanced.