You know what they say about seeing a light I a
tunnel, it's either the end of the tunnel or the train. I am not sure
which I am seeing, I tried firing up the motor last night and it would not
start. I verified the motor has fuel, the main relay is on and there
appears to be spark but still no go. So it looks like I am in for some
troubleshooting this coming week. I did manage to get a bunch
of other stuff this past week and this weekend.
Running the hard brake lines was at the top of
the to do list. I am also doing a master cylinder upgrade in
anticipation of larger tires, I went with a master cylinder from a 1980 Pontiac
Firebird (4 wheel disc model). This is a pretty common swap in the Suzuki
world. The mounting holes on the master cylinder just need to be slotted
and then the master cylinder is bolted to the Samurai booster. I also
needed to pick two brake line adapters to allow me to use some 3/8-24 brake line
nuts on the hard lines, part numbers listed at the bottom of the page. The brake line nuts are SAE
and run to a set of line locks, the front one is mounted to the firewall
as shown in the second picture.
The rear line lock was mounted down by the
battery, just below the pedals.
The hard lines then go from the line locks out to
a bracket to connect to a soft line near one of the upper links. The brake
line nut at the bracket is a standard M6 x 1.00 Toyota thread (same as a
Samurai) which I harvested from the parts truck. For the soft lines I
ordered some braided stainless lines from
You can get a blue or red teflon sheath over the lines and can order them in any
length. I ordered all mine with female ends and 18" long. The braided
stainless lines aren't very flexible so keep that in mind if you think you need
a tight bend.
There is another hard line running down the link
, then a soft line between the link and axle housing. This particular soft
line is from a Samurai, there are two located under the battery on a stock
Samurai that act as a flex joint where the hard brake lines go from the firewall
to the frame (same purpose here). For the front I plan on using a longer line,
these short ones need to be setup perfectly or else they will not provide enough
flex. When I welded the brake line tabs on I did it with only the upper
links installed and had to cut and move them after installing the lower links
since the axle housing was rotated a little further back with the lower links
I used a 25ft roll of 3/16 steel tubing to
fabricate the brake lines. The line clamps and SAE nuts are available from
Summit Racing. Also shown in this picture is the lower link which I ended
up sleeving. To recap, all the links started as 1.50 x .250 wall DOM
tubing, the lowers then had a piece of 1.75 x .120 wall DOM tubing slid over
them. I did have to do some grinding on the lower links to get the 1.75
DOM to fit, basically I just ground all the dark colored coating off the 1.50
dia. tubing. The 1.75 dia. tubing then slid over the smaller tubing but
required some light tapping with a hammer towards the end. Lastly I installed a
rib made from 1.00 x .50 flat stock along the top edge of the link, stitch
welded at 1" increments. The sleeving and ribbing were done to the front
and rear lower links only, the upper links are all just 1.50 x .250 wall DOM.
The decision to beef up the lower links came at
the last minute, I figured it was the best time to do it when they were brand
new, any sort of movement and you'd need a press to get the outer sleeve
material on. On my old rig the ribbed links held there position top to
bottom but they bowed side to side due to a few nasty rolls, hopefully the
sleeving will take care of the side to side bowing. I realize it would
have been better to just use .375 wall material, but I didn't think about it
till after I had all my links already cut and welded.
The interior was also coming together nicely.
I fabricated some cup holders from an old Smittybuilt bumper that I got along
with the Toyota parts truck that started this whole project. Since I don't
have a body tub, everything needs a spot to be tied down to avoid dropping it
out of one of the many holes in the floor, the second pictures show the little
bracket I made to keep my camera bag safe and secure.
Here's a couple shots showing the floors
installed (made from 1/4" thick clear lexan). I painted the bottom
portions to block out everything from the front cross member back. I
realize these will get scuffed up pretty good but from my experiments with the
same thing in my last rig I found visibility was still good even after months of
dirt, grit and dust. I plan on adding some strips of no-slip tape as well
to give the occupants some traction to safely get in and out of the rig.
Next I installed all the parts that needed to be
bolted on under the hood. Looks like everything just barely fits.
With everything in place I can now figure out what sort of fittings and lines I
need to plumb the hydro steering.
Another small upgrade I did was swapping out the
stock ARB air line (plastic) for some stainless steel airlines. I picked
up a kit online for roughly $50 that included the required fittings and 9 feet
of airline. My old line was still holding up after 5 years but I figured
it was time to either replace it with new stuff or upgrade it, better to do it
now while it was all apart than on the trail.
With the links installed and the brake
lines run the rear axle was now ready to be assembled. one thing I
discovered while inspecting my 3rd member was a large crack in the 5.29 pinion.
These were Superior gears and I think they just failed from some hard usage.
I don't have money in the budget right now to replace them so I am going to use
my spare 3rd member which has a set of 5.29's and a welded carrier. Once
the 3rd member was bolted down I installed some new axle seals in the housing
and slid the axles in place. I plan on buying some chromoly axles as soon
as they are available to replace the stock units, Marlin Crawler is supposed to
start selling them for the narrower 80-85 Toyota axle housings sometime in early
Master Cylinder #101745 (1980 Pontiac
Firebird w/ 4 Wheel Disc Brakes)
Brake Line Tube Adapter:
Brass; 3/16" (3/8"-24) Female Tube Size to 5/16" (1/2"-20) Male Tube Size
#7909 Fitting for the large port on the
above Master Cylinder. This is the part number on my receipt, I can't find
it in their system online. I believe the thread is 5/8"-18 to 3/8"-24.
Next Page - Page 20