This model is shown with PRP standard bench seat out back. Full sized seats could be used by stretching
the rear portion further back. As you can see the front portion remains the same
as the BMP chassis while the
rear gets wider and the roof extended. There is roughly 12" of legroom for
the rear seats and they sit up off the floor giving your legs a place to go
(instead of sitting on a flat floor).
This chassis design is only 5 inches longer than my BMP
chassis gains most of the passenger room via the wider rear end and
a custom gas tank out back which allows the rear seats to have a
decent amount of legroom. It looks like there will be ample storage
both above the gas tank and below the rear seats. Wheelbase shown
111" although shorter is possible as shown below.
Outside of rocker to outside of rocker is 58.2", outside of door bar
to outside of door bar is 53.6". Belly to highest point on the
roof is 54" and length from front bumper to rear most tube is
138.4". Estimated chassis weight is 300-350lbs depending on bracing.
Advantages of my designs include:
The ability to pull the transmission and transfer case without
pulling the motor (via the lower skid plate).
No bars near your head (unlike many homebuilt chassis designs).
A cockpit that is big enough to keep you from hanging outside of the
chassis when seated.
A suspension that works excellent for both crawling and climbing.
As per the FAQ:
Suzuki: 1.3, 1.6 or 2.0l motor should fit
with a Samurai or Sidekick 5 speed and Samurai transfer case. I used to
run a Toyota 5 speed
transmission (85 4x4 Pickup) mated to a 1.6 16v motor via an
adapter. A stock Samurai radiator fits
perfect up front.
Toyota: 22re (2.2l), 2rz
(2.4l), 3.4l, 2rz(2.4l) or 3rz (2.7l) motor found in various Toyota pickups could also be
used with a 5 speed transmission and dual Toyota transfer cases. If
you run an automatic a 3.4l Toyota V6 should also fit.
Domestic: A Pontiac 3.8l V6,
Chevy 4.3l V6, Chevy 4.8/5.3/5.7/6.0/LT1, Ford 5.0l to name a few.
An automatic transmission is preferred as it makes the drive train length shorter and allows you to
push the motor back to leave enough room up front for a good sized
radiator. A 26 x 19" double pass Ron Davis radiator fits if you lay
it back at an angle (this particular radiator keeps my supercharged 3.8l motor
plenty cool). A manual transmission will work but wheelbase
will need to be 102" or above.
Larger motors have been installed by other builders (including
big blocks). Really if you think about it the difference
between a 4.3 V6 and 5.3 V8 is only a few inches in length and the
chassis is very easy to modify if you want to make the fenders a bit
wider to accommodate whatever it is you want to use to power this
and build up notes for a Supercharged 3.8l install can be seen here.
Axles: I am running Toyota truck axles from an 85
4x4. Pretty much any solid axle can be made to fit. I have
personally run 1985 Toyota truck axles as well as narrowed D60's
(60" wms to wms) under this chassis.
Suspension: The skies the limit. I ran a
dual triangulated 4 link front and
rear utilizing 2.0" coilovers and provide the numbers to duplicate this
link setup. Wheelbase in the plans is approximately 111" and with 39" tires the
belly is approximately 23" above the ground. The wheelbase and belly clearance
can be changed to suit your needs. For further suspension information
see the FAQ.
Steering: Full hydraulic via a double ended
steering ram. A single ended steering ram could be used but you will need
to modify the front link setup.
Tires: With the Toyota axles and 2"
backspacing on the rims up to a 39" tire should fit fine. A
narrow 42" tire also fits. With full width axles a tire larger than
42" in diameter could be used.
The plans you will receive are laser printed on 11 x 17
sized sheets of paper. I have broken down the entire chassis
into stages and include a suggested order of assembly guide to help
you build your chassis. The guide lists how I would tackle the
chassis build and notes when you should mock up major systems and
suggests other systems that need to be considered at that stage.
Things to keep in mind:
1. I make no warranties of any kind for the performance or durability of this
chassis. You are buying plans only. If you chose to fabricate something
using these plans you assume all risk in the fabrication and operation of the
2. You will need a basic knowledge of tube bending and access to a tube
bender, welder, chop saw, etc. Access to a plasma cutter or cutting torch would
be very helpful but is not required. The chassis is designed around 1 5/8
tubing with a bend radius of 4.5"***. Larger tubing or bend radii
could be used with some adjustments to the initial tube lengths. there are
no bends over 90 degrees.
*** It has been brought to my attention that the 4.5" radius die is no longer
available from JD2. See
the FAQ here for information on compensating for different die sizes. It is
actually a very quick and easy adjustment to accommodate larger bend radius
3. The plans are meant to be a guide. Since there is no way to
get the bends to match the plans %100 expect to have to make small adjustments.
The plans do have suggested cut lengths and start points for the
bends. It will be your responsibility to cope the tube ends. In
spots where there are straight braces I usually provide a recommended tube size
and length, however in most cases your best bet is to measure the distance
between the nodes to determine the actual cut length.
4. The plans only cover the dimensions of the basic chassis. This
means gussets, mounting tabs, suspension related mounts on the axles, body
panels, component mounts, and all interior mounting tubing, etc are your
5. I will include a recommended list of material for the basic chassis.
You may want to purchase additional material if you would like to leave extra
material on the cuts or if you feel you may have to re-do a section of tubing.
For costing purposes I used approximately (8) 20ft sticks of 1.625 x .120
DOM, and (2) 20ft sticks of the following: 1.50 x .095 and 1.50 x .120 for
the main chassis bracing. To save money you can get away with using HREW for any piece of tubing that does not contact rocks.
The plans cost $120 which includes all drawings on 11 x 17 paper; shipping is
included in that price to any address in the
I do not offer electronic versions. I accept Zelle as payment, email
email@example.com for payment information. I used to accept PayPal but
as of 12/9/2020 I am no longer accepting payment from that "service".
All packages ship USPS, please allow 1-2 weeks for domestic orders
although actual ship times are usually much faster.
International customers please read -
As of 10-30-2020 I will only ship to the US.
I apologize for the inconvenience
but I no longer have any faith in the postal services of other countries.
Answers to the most common questions
I do not offer an electronic version of the
I do not accept PayPal for any orders as of