First, all the components I used in my
Project BMP will easily fit
into this chassis, however I decided to design this chassis around full width
axles (84" outside of tire to outside of tire shown). To accommodate
larger drive trains the new chassis features a taller & wider hood and a wider
passenger compartment. The lower frame rails were also re-designed to
allow for a lot of foot room. Here's some comparison shots of the new 2
seater chassis (BMP II) vs. the original 3 seater I recently built. The
front axle is pushed farther forward in the 2 seater chassis to accommodate the
track bar up front and to keep the front axle in front of the motor. With
all the links being 34" long the new chassis would have an estimated wheelbase
of 108.5" and better than a 90 degree approach angle front and rear with 39.5"
tires. Longer rear links would easily allow for bigger tires and a longer
wheelbase if desired.
The part envelope shown in green is an inline 6 cylinder engine, 5 speed
transmission and Dana 300 transfer case from a Jeep YJ (one of the larger engine
options out there). A raised hood or
hood bulge would be required and the stock radiator would need to be rear
mounted (or a smaller one sourced). A custom 26 x 19" double pass radiator would
fit up front. In addition, the belly pan of the chassis is left wide open to
allow the transfer case and transmission to be removed from the vehicle without
pulling the engine. Other engines that would fit easily:
Pontiac 3.8l V6,
Chevy 4.3l V6, Chevy 4.8/5.3/5.7/6.0/LT1, Ford 5.0l to name a few.
The front axle could be located with either a 4 or 5 links (one of them being
a trac bar), the rear easily fits a double triangulated 4 link. There is
room for a rear sway bar on the rear axle if you desire one, the one shown
is approx. 36" long.
Isometric views comparing the BMP II chassis to the original BMP chassis.
In back of the BMP II chassis I mocked up a stock YJ radiator and a 20 gallon
fuel cell (approximate). Basically BMP II is a compact 2 seater with lots
Here are a few views without the body panels. The drive train shown is
my existing 1.6l with a Samurai Radiator, dual Toyota transfer cases, a 5 speed
manual transmission and an 8 gallon fuel cell. As you can see the engine
bay is very roomy and should provide ample room for larger motors.
Specs: Outside of door
bar to outside of door bar is 55.6". Belly to highest point on
the roof is 55" and length from front bumper to rear most tube is
133.6". Estimated chassis weight is approx. 300lbs as shown.
For further suspension information
see the FAQ.
Comparison pictures, BMP II in front
The plans you will receive are laser printed on 11 x 17
sized sheets of paper. I have broken down the entire chassis
into stages and include a suggested order of assembly guide to help
you build your chassis. The guide lists how I would tackle the
chassis build and notes when you should mock up major systems and
suggests other systems that need to be considered at that stage.
Things to keep in mind:
1. I make no warranties of any kind for the performance or durability of this
chassis. You are buying plans only. If you chose to fabricate something
using these plans you assume all risk in the fabrication and operation of the
2. You will need a basic knowledge of tube bending and access to a tube
bender, welder, chop saw, etc. Access to a plasma cutter or cutting torch would
be very helpful but is not required. The chassis is designed around 1 5/8
tubing with a bend radius of 4.5"***. Larger tubing or bend radii
could be used with some adjustments to the initial tube lengths. there are
no bends over 90 degrees.
*** It has been brought to my attention that the 4.5" radius die is no longer
available from JD2. See
the FAQ here for information on compensating for different die sizes. It is
actually a very quick and easy adjustment to accommodate larger bend radius
3. The plans are meant to be a guide. Since there is no way to
get the bends to match the plans %100 expect to have to make small adjustments.
The plans do have suggested cut lengths and start points for the bends. It
will be your responsibility to cope the tube ends. In spots where there
are straight braces I usually provide a recommended tube size and length,
however in most cases your best bet is to measure the distance between the nodes
to determine the actual cut length.
4. The plans only cover the dimensions of the basic chassis. This
means gussets, mounting tabs, suspension related mounts on the axles, body
panels, component mounts, and all interior mounting tubing, etc are your
5. I will include a recommended list of material for the basic chassis.
You may want to purchase additional material if you would like to leave extra
material on the cuts or if you feel you may have to re-do a section of tubing.
For costing purposes I used approximately (8) 20ft sticks of 1.625 x .120
DOM, and (2) 20ft sticks of the following: 1.50 x .095 and 1.50 x .120 for
the main chassis bracing. To save money you can get away with using HREW for any piece of tubing that does not contact rocks.
The plans cost $120 which includes all drawings on 11 x 17 paper; shipping is
included in that price to any address in the
I do not offer electronic versions. I accept Zelle as payment, email
email@example.com for payment information. I used to accept
PayPal but as of 12/9/2020 I am no longer accepting payment from that "service".
All packages ship USPS, please allow 1-2 weeks for domestic orders
although actual ship times are usually much faster.
International customers please read -
As of 10-30-2020 I will only ship to the US.
I apologize for the inconvenience
but I no longer have any faith in the postal services of other countries.
Answers to the most common questions
I do not offer an electronic version of the
I do not accept PayPal for any orders as of